How To Grow SunPatiens

Impatiens 'SunPatiens Compact Deep Rose'

As part of an innovative breeding project, Sakata Ornamentals created an impatiens plant with a vigorous root system that can truly withstand and thrive in full sun, partial shade and heat. Each plant is also designed for a spectacular show in garden beds, containers and hanging baskets.

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The SunPatiens series not only boasts the inherent capabilities to endure the environmental conditions that would cause walleriana types or traditional New Guinea varieties to shrivel and burn, but also delivers brilliant shows of massive color from spring to frost, as well. SunPatiens have a proven reputation among growers, landscapers and gardeners, and as downy mildew devastates Impatiens walleriana, SunPatiens are being used to re-shape landscapes around the globe.

Click here for our Downy Mildew On Impatiens: Resources And Advice page, which includes all our coverage of the 20102-13 outbreak, including what to do if you find impatiens downy mildew on your crop and alternative crops to grow.

SunPatiens Deliver Value

• SunPatiens allow growers the option to direct stick into finished containers from a 306 up to 5-inch pots, saving time, labor and money.
• SunPatiens root extremely fast and produce finished liners in just two weeks.
• Reduced crop time uses less energy and yields more turns in the same space.
• SunPatiens grow well over a wide temperature range, providing flexibility with production scheduling.
• Plants can be finished under cool conditions with petunias and geraniums, saving energy and eliminating the need for PGRs.
• SunPatiens flourish under the most extreme summer heat conditions and can extend the selling season.

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The SunPatiens Family

SunPatiens are offered in a wide array of colors and three distinct habits to address the specific needs of your production and target market. The first step in producing a high-quality, successful crop is to select the varieties that best meet your production goals.

Compact Series: Compact SunPatiens are bred for shorter internodes and excellent branching for a dense, bushy plant with strong retail appeal. Available in seven colors, compact SunPatiens are the perfect choice for 306, quart, gallon and hanging basket production. Compact varieties do not require growth regulator applications if plants are not grown wet with high nutrition and produced under high light.

Spreading Series: Spreading SunPatiens have a mounding habit, versus the more upright, vase-shape of the vigorous series. Ideally suited for basket and premium patio pots, these plants also perform exceptionally well in landscapes, where a rounded, spreading form is preferred.

Vigorous Series: The vigorous SunPatiens name says it all. It’s the perfect plant where fast growing color is essential. While most commonly produced in larger containers, these plants cover a lot of bare ground fast and can be offered as 60 to 70 millimeter ready-to-plant liners. This package provides quick turns for the grower and is ideal for the commercial landscaper and home gardener looking to save labor and simplify planting.

SunPatiens Production Tips

Propagation: Whether unrooted SunPatiens cuttings are direct-stuck in a multi-pack cell or into a liner tray cell, the rooting period is approximately 21 days following these recommendations:
• Sterile and well-drained media
• pH of 5.8 to 6.3; EC less than 0.75 mmhos
• Light level of 1,500 to 2,000 foot candles
• Mist moderately the first three days and then apply only as needed to keep turgid
• 70°F to 75°F soil temperature for weeks one to two. Move to cooler temps and higher light in week three to avoid stretch and tone cutting.
• After roots develop, begin weekly fertilizer 65 to 75ppm N (Cal-Mag) and full minors.
• Significant water stress during the first three weeks may delay flowering.
• In terms of PGR use, a tank mix spray of 1,500 ppm B-Nine + 2ppm A-Rest may be applied to reduce stretch during low light periods.

Transplant to Finish: If SunPatiens cuttings have been rooted in liners and are ready for transplanting, the grow time will be approximately six to seven weeks. If the cuttings have been direct-stuck into multi-packs or small containers, the total grow time from sticking to finish will be approximately seven to eight weeks.
High light and water restrictions are the most effective means for controlling stretch. It also conditions and tones the plant for improved shelf life and less transplant shock for the end user. Cooler temperatures (65°F in the day and 55°F at night) can also be used to reduce stretch and save energy costs but can extend production time two to three weeks. Do not pinch SunPatiens, as it destroys the plant’s natural symmetry and delays flowering.

Combining water stress with high level chemical PGRs can lead to stunted plants. If needed, a 0.05 ppm Bonzi drench applied three weeks prior to sales will tone plants without any flowering delay.

Diseases And Insects: During propagation, prevent Botrytis cinerea (gray mold) by removing any damaged cuttings or dead tissue, providing good air movement and employing strict sanitary conditions. Preventative fungicide sprays will also aid preventing the development of Botrytis.

Rhizoctonia solani (fungal root rot) is a natural fungus that causes diseases such as damping-off, root rot, crown rot, stem cankers and web blight. Rhizoctonia is a main concern for growers who direct stick SunPatiens into larger containers or use poorly aerated media.

Fungus gnats and shore flies may also introduce and spread Rhizoctonia within a crop. Biological and chemical methods are available for controlling these insects. Sanitation is always the first defense against Rhizoctonia. Use sterile, soil-less growing medium, clean pots and flats, and keep field soil away from propagation areas. If preventative drenches are necessary, select those labeled as safe for use on New Guinea Impatiens. Always scout for thrips, whiteflies, aphids and leaf miners by setting out yellow or blue sticky cards and monitor insect populations closely. Apply the appropriate insecticides as needed, taking care to spray only according to label directions.

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Avatar for Patricia Woltman Patricia Woltman says:

Thanks

Avatar for Beverly Smidt Beverly Smidt says:

Will these come back every year or are they an annual?

Avatar for Pauline Fontenot Pauline Fontenot says:

I so appreciate your information here on sunpatiens. I tried choosing plants this year that I could propagate cuttings from for my flower beds and pots for next year. I live in south Alabama and most of my yard gets 6 hours of full sun per day so I have sprinklers set on timers for watering purposes. Sometimes they get water every day sometimes every other day for 30 minutes. I find that the sunpatiens have to have water every day the sun is out in order for them to not wilt. I have recently rooted a number of things from plants that I have kept over from last year in a cold frame. I am very happy with the success so far. I took a cutting from my bright orange sunpatien a few days ago and placed it in water. I thought it was just stressed as it began to wilt an hour later … but the wilting continued until I realized it wasn't going to make it. An elderly neighbor always had several impatiens rooting in water on her back porch in the window sill. I assumed that sunpatiens could be done the same way. I'd really like to supply myself with them next year instead of re-purchasing them form the nursery. I believe the variety I have is the vigorous type. They have just exploded in growth and are beautiful; they are almost to large for the pots that I have placed them in and it is only the beginning of July. They have also dwarfed the other plants that I placed near them for contrast. I thought I could pinch them back to help them stay bushy, but in your blog you state that pinching will ruin their shape and slow flowering. I have read up on direct stick propagation and other methods for impatiens. Will sticking them directly in soil keep them viable and alive long enough to grow roots? Thank you in advance for getting me straightened out with my growing and propagating sunpatiens. : )

Avatar for Rusty Barnett Rusty Barnett says:

Pauline you will have many problems without the Proper Soil. And it is hard to come by. Also It is almost impossible to root without Mist. But you can buy a tray at Walmart that has a top on it. You can use it and mist several times @ day with a spray bottle. The tray come with Jiffy 7 cubes.

Avatar for LInda Varner LInda Varner says:

my sunPatiens are looking spindling, why is this happening

Avatar for susan Davis susan Davis says:

my sunpatients were beautiful for the month of man an june they have quite blooming and are slowley dying i have sparayed insect spray and i have used bayers mold spray last year they were beautiful and grew to be huge this year they have hardly grow i have fertilized and nothing they are in the front of my garden in ground any suggestions.

Avatar for Emma D. Emma D. says:

I recently got SunPatiens from a local Lowe’s and by 4:00 today they were pretty much dead. I had been using a spray bottle to water them and realized that, that alone was not enough water at all. I filled up a bunch of water bottles and poured them into to the plants about 1/2-3/4 of the bottle per each plant. At almost 2 hours later they are alive and picking themselves up. So the key to SunPatiens is WATER. However, be sure not to over water and allow drainage at the bottom. Hope this helps!

Avatar for Terri Kelley Terri Kelley says:

I’m over wintering some Sunpatiens, and have fought the good fight of getting rid of fungus gnats with nematodes. Now, the tips of new growth are turning brown, and dying. I water when top 3 in are dry, to keep nematodes alive and active.
I have begun to spray with natural fungacide, but the ” mother” plant just looks sickly. Conversely, the other plants, and succulents seem to have benefitted from nematodes. Any suggestions?
Terri Kelley

Avatar for Darryl Darryl says:

I live in South Louisiana where the weather is mostly warm, save for a few freeze days in winter. Is there any way I can make the plant perennials?

Avatar for Virginia Hawkins Virginia Hawkins says:

Hi Daryl. I was wondering the same thing. I have rooted the white, red and purple and I am trying to keep some stock for next year. The ones I rooted in soil were the tops only and look good. The pieces that I cut off the tops, I just stuck them on a bowl of water. I transplanted them today and every one of them had rooted too. Some of them had two sets of roots. They rooted on each node that touched the water. Here’s hoping I can keep them till spring