Ways to Use Moisture Sensors to Automate Greenhouse Irrigation

soil moisture sensor tracking for plants

When using moisture sensors, growers typically determine a set point at which irrigation turns on. Many growers choose this based on experience. However, research indicates that in a typical peat-based growing medium, 5% to 10% is very dry, and 40% is close to container capacity. Most crops start showing signs of drought below moisture levels of 20% to 25%. Hibiscus, however, is very sensitive to the moisture level. That provides a great opportunity for using irrigation for height control.

Automating irrigation can save time and labor in greenhouses. If you are considering automating your irrigation, moisture sensors may be an option to help you make decisions about when to irrigate. Moisture sensors have been around for a while, but in the past 10 to 15 years, the technology has improved quite a bit.

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Most moisture sensors measure the volume of water in the substrate relative to the volume of substrate (see photo above). The sensors we have primarily worked with are the ECH2O EC-5 and 10HS sensors from Meter Group, but there are other sensors on the market as well. The main difference between these two sensors is the volume of influence; the 10HS is longer and is more appropriate for larger containers (anything larger than 6-inch pots), while the EC-5 is better for smaller containers (4-inch or 6-inch). We are not aware of any sensors that work well in even smaller containers, like bedding plant trays or seedling flats.

What Can Moisture Sensors Do for Me?

Moisture sensors can continuously monitor how much water is present in the root zone of your plants, allowing your irrigation system to respond to small changes in substrate moisture. Plant water use varies as plants grow and environmental conditions change. Timers, which are frequently used to automate irrigation, don’t respond to changes in light, temperature, or relative humidity and thus cannot accurately provide the amount of water needed by your crops. It is challenging to irrigate plants without over- or under-watering when using a timer; however, this isn’t a problem with moisture sensors, since irrigation can be triggered automatically as the amount of water in the pot drops below a certain threshold.

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One of the greatest advantages of using moisture sensors compared to other irrigation techniques is that they provide you with more control over your irrigation. You decide how dry the substrate is allowed to get, based on what is appropriate for your crop and your preferences. You can also specify how long the irrigation system turns on once the measured water content in the substrate reaches that set point. Using this approach has the potential to apply much less water than traditional irrigation techniques. For example, Hibiscus acetosella ‘Panama Red’ (Cranberry Hibiscus) grown in greenhouses in Athens, GA, maintained at a 35% substrate water content used 6.2 gallons of water during a 37-day production period, whereas plants maintained at a 45% substrate water content used 11 gallons (Bayer et al., 2013; Figure 1).

In commercial nurseries, we have seen water-use reductions of more than 80% compared to timer-controlled irrigation. Using less water during production can be advantageous for several reasons. It may reduce the need to add additional wells or reduce electricity costs for water pumps if you are using drastically less water to irrigate your plants. Not over-watering your crops can also reduce or sometimes even eliminate problems with root diseases and shorten the production cycle. Which means more turns.

How Do I Use Sensors to Monitor Irrigation?

Moisture sensors can also be used to monitor irrigation in the greenhouse and/or remotely. Sensors are quite responsive to changes in the moisture in the container, as you can see in Figure 2. We have worked with growers at greenhouses and nurseries who have integrated moisture sensors into their production to automate irrigation. Some growers may choose to maintain their crop at a higher set point (40%, for example) and have no stress for their crop. In Figure 1, you can see that plants grown in drier soil tend to be smaller. So, an alternative approach would be maintaining a lower set point (20%, for example) to reduce plant growth instead of using plant growth regulators to reduce growth. This approach works well with many crops, and our research indicates it can be combined with graphical tracking with poinsettia. Lowering the irrigation threshold when plants were getting too tall can be an effective way to control plant height (Alem et al., 2015).

How Do I Integrate Sensors into My Greenhouse?

Integrating sensors into a greenhouse may be the trickiest step, but fortunately, it is getting easier and will hopefully continue to get easier in the future. One common concern of growers is about the number of sensors needed. There is no simple answer to this, but we have successfully grown crops in a commercial nursery using only a single sensor to trigger irrigation. The size of a single irrigation zone depends on microclimate differences throughout the greenhouses. For example, plants near a cooling pad, where the air is cool and humid, will need less water than those near exhaust fans. One thing you may want to avoid, though, is irrigating multiple species of plants with a single sensor. That may be possible, but it is difficult since plant species will have different growth rates, resulting in very different water usage. If multiple crops need to be combined within a single irrigation zone, it is best to use sensors in the crop that uses the most water to control irrigation.

Sensors, such as the previously mentioned Meter Group sensors, can be connected to systems such as Priva or Argus to automate irrigation relatively seamlessly. There are also a few less expensive options. A relatively new, mid-range cost option is available from Mayim. This is a stand-alone system that works with many different kinds of sensors for automation. The cheapest, but most hands-on, option is to purchase an Arduino microcontroller and relays to connect to sensors and valves for automation (Ferrarezi et al., 2015). With this set-up, the sensors will be the most expensive part of the system. However, you will probably need to feel somewhat comfortable with software programming and working with hardware to set up an automation system using an Arduino.

You can find step-by-step instructions on how to build and program your own irrigation controller at https://hortphys.uga.edu/research/building-irrigation-controllers.html. Do not be tempted by the very cheap soil moisture sensors available online; we have tested several of them, and they do not work.

Where Do I Start?

A good way to start with sensor-controlled irrigation is to install a few sensors and monitor how your irrigation practices affect the water in the pots. Just having access to this quantitative information can help improve irrigation practices. What do changes in water content look like? How dry do you let your crop get? How much leaching occurs (typically visible as very rapid declines in water content right after irrigation)? What happens to water content if you start watering for shorter amounts of time?

Once you are comfortable with the data you get from the sensors, a logical next step is to then automate irrigation, based on the sensor data. One final word of caution: no automated irrigation controller can replace the judgment and experience of a good grower. It is important that a grower actively monitors the crop and makes any necessary adjustments to make sure the crop is properly irrigated.


Resources

Alem, P., P.A. Thomas, and M.W. van Iersel. 2015. Controlled water deficit as an alternative to plant growth retardants for regulation of poinsettia stem elongation. HortScience 50:565-569.

Bayer, A., I. Mahbab, M. Chappell, J. Ruter, and M.W. van Iersel. 2013. Water use and growth of Hibiscus acetosella ‘Panama Red’ grown with a soil moisture sensor-controlled irrigation system. HortScience 48:980-987.

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Avatar for Norm Norm says:

https://www.greenhousegrower.com/technology/how-to-use-moisture-sensors-to-automate-greenhouse-irrigation/

Hi. I need some help. I read the above article and found it very interesting. But after losing about 200 pepper plants because I misjudged moisture content of my coco coir/compost based media in seedling trays, I was searching for a meter to test moisture.

I do not have a commercial greenhouse, so mine is a hand watered situation, not automatic irrigation.

I read with interest your comments “We are not aware of any sensors that work well in even smaller containers, like bedding plant trays or seedling flats.” and “research indicates that in a typical peat-based growing medium, 5% to 10% is very dry, and 40% is close to container capacity. Most crops start showing signs of drought below moisture levels of 20% to 25%.”

That last quote has me confused. Peppers don’t like to have wet feet, but they need moisture. I avoid the use of peat for a number of reasons. If my greenhouse seedling coir/compost mix was at 25%, wouldn’t that be much too wet? I am not understanding what the percentage relates to, and 40% is crazy….but I don’t know what that value is/means!

So my question is, given the media being used, how do you know how much moisture a particular seedling plant (pepper, daisy, broccoli, pansy, etc) should be, and most specifically how do you measure it in trays and flats? Is there a table at some horicultural source that gives those values? And how do I know what they should be OR MEASURE them for seedling trays/cells?

Avatar for Marc van Iersel Marc van Iersel says:

Without sensors or weighing trays, determining when plants need to be irrigated is largely based on experience and appearance of the substrate. This is nice training: https://www.backpocketgrower.org/irrigation.asp. Many growers use a scale from 1-5 to describe how dry/wet substrate is. If you have a good quality substrate, it will by about 40-50% water after a thorough irrigation, followed by drainage. Maybe up to 60% for a germination mix, since those hold more water. The % refer to the volume of water per volume of mix. And no 40% isn’t too wet. There would still be plenty of air in the substrate as well (keep in mind that roots don’t suffer from too much water, but from too little oxygen). A good substrate can hold a large amount of water, while also having lots of air-filled pores. You would be surprised how dry a substrate with 20 -25% water is (likely a 2 on the moisture scale in the link above). Not convinced? Get a gallon of substrate and let it completely air dry. It will likely still have 5 – 10% water, which you may not be able to get out without an oven. Now add a quart of water to the substrate, mix it thoroughly, and let it sit for an hour. That substrate will have about 25-30% water, but it won’t feel very wet.